Mile: 444 to 454
Climate: cool, overcast
Morale: content
"The day after bath day is love day." - Spearhead
Oh Hiker Heaven, how to describe thee? We hiked ten miles before ten in the morning to reach this gem. The Saufleys are trail angels who have created a little paradise in Agua Dulce, town of few establishments and many horses. As one lady in town told us, "You've gotta love dirt to live here." Hiker Heaven is a mile outside of town, and we had just started down the road when a van veered over to pick us up and haul us the rest of the way.
We entered the gates to the excitement of about seven dogs - as Little Spoon said, "they have one of every dog." There's a morose basset hound, a very elderly beagle, a cockerspaniel, a variety of mutts, and a miniscule chihuahua name "Tiny" who was today wearing a shirt with the recycling symbol on it and rolling around in the grass. Anyone who needs a little nurturing is welcome here.
[Thanks for the croissant Vadim!; morning tracks; the view; desert flower; determined morning selfie; uber tunnel!]
The parade of dogs runs amok; the big mutt leads the chase whenever a car passes by the gates, and the fleet follows all barking their heads off. One minute later the elderly beagle catches up making a vague "wooowooooo" sound in her hoarse voice, tip of her tail wagging ever so slightly. All day long the dog pack gets lots of love from the 30+ hikers camped here for a night or two. (Rebecca, you would love it.) The yard is a sprawl of tents lined up in rows, backpacks hanging on hooks nearby. Write your name on the whiteboard if you want a shower. Place your dirty clothes in a mesh laundry bag, and grab a fresh t-shirt and flip-flops to wear while you're here. The garage is full of hiker packages, in alphabetical order no less. The driveway boasts two large white tents: one with computers and wifi and one with snacks. A truck brings water for the tank every two days because the single shower is used 24/7. A row of port-a-potties lines the edge of the yard; just over the fence are three horses that get fed and cared for by the same woman running the whole show - cleaning the bathroom, hauling bags of ice, greeting hikers, sharing family leftovers. Our tent is pitched just next to the chicken coop (I know, right?)
[Them morning smiles; DOGS!; cruising in to Agua Dulce; the morning after sleeping in; this is where I belong; tent chilling (in my loaner shirt)]
Hikers lounge about on the porch, in the RVs and guest house, and all throughout the yard. Trips to town or REI leave every hour and are announced through a megaphone. "I want to see some hustle," Mr. Saufley jokes. We had a ride to town in the back of a pickup and a ride back in a gator full of kettle corn just like Papa's. We've cooked our own meals here, but we did enjoy a breakfast of pancakes and french toast in town this morning. Tomorrow we will hike out and enjoy another week in the desert heat.
[horsies, resupplying in the grass, athletic lizzy!]
